Loading a trailer
#1
Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:50 PM
#3
Posted 04 February 2012 - 10:41 PM
#6
Posted 04 February 2012 - 11:32 PM
??? Thought I recalled wooded cleates screwed into the deck where the track goes for traction 1" x 2" x 15" cleats screwed about 6" to a foot apart.
I'm a fan of a flat trailer with drive on ramps...but you still need some momentum to get up on the deck.
Just finding the right place to unload & reload a trailer or truck makes all the difference between a hard & dangerous job to a safe and easy task.
#8
Posted 05 February 2012 - 05:36 AM
#9
Posted 05 February 2012 - 07:34 AM
#11
Posted 05 February 2012 - 10:39 AM
steviep, on 04 February 2012 - 09:50 PM, said:
You didn't mention if this is a clamshell or ramp door enclosed trailer??
You don't need pick's... My 99' 800 triple Pantera has no pick's and only need to be maybe 2 feet from ramp ( the 440 & F7 are picked )... But it was harder before, as my trailer back has like most out there a 4" in hieght deck frame. Even some or most of the enclosed trailer's have a 2 1/2" - 3" edge to get up onto ramp or door. I had tried finding the flatest area to park or put a 2x4 just laying in front to sort of help ( this was even with someone ) just didn't work well enough in my opinion, and worried about the tail lights getting broken. Even some guy's I went with whom had enclosed trailers ( doors or ramps ) had difficulty from time to time, have the ski's hang-up or need that 6 -8 foot moving start.
I got the Ski guides low profile 6" wide 10' long (set/pair) that came in 2 sections 5' in lenght each. Along with the full rubber trac-mat..a (pair/set)about 15" wide 5 feet long. now if you have a drive thru you would want 2 pairs/sets...possibly.
Only thing I have done different than many..is I built foldable / split loading start ramps. These stay mounted to trailer ( could be done on a fold-up door ramp also, little ingenuity)..
I can load just about anything on an unlevel terrain now..no pounding of the ski's and only 12" away start or the ski's resting on/over ramp edges.. Obviously if it's glare ice under the track would be difficult, which in this case just walk it up from the side easily.
The Ski guides alone would help for the carbide or skeg's to slip freely & not dig into the wood decking..only reason I got the mats was too not tear up the decking from a studded track. I preferred the low profile as I can use the trailer for just about anything without stumbling/tripping over the higher profile ones.
Edited by Pantera99, 05 February 2012 - 10:43 AM.
#14
Posted 05 February 2012 - 12:36 PM
When I did my trailer I got a free used track from my dealer. It was really trashed, so I mounted the sections with the inside facing up. As it turns out the drive lugs that are on the side I have facing up mesh very nicely with the cleats on my sled tracks. I will probably do my next trailer the same way regardless of the condition of the track I use. Screw them down through the steel clips to prevent the screw heads from pulling through.
Also, you can make great ski-guides from 2X4 lumber. The skis ride on the flat plastic and the carbides are suspended above the trailer floor. There is only 1 path for the skis to follow, so the sled is exactly where I want it to be every time. The down side is that this setup is sled-specific. My guides work great with any Yamaha that has a 42" ski stance and center keel skis. If I have to load a friends Skidoo with dual runner skis it does not work well, but that only happens about once per season at most.
I don't like plastic ski guides because when the trailer is tilted and you step off the sled onto the plastic with snow on your boot, gou're going to end up on your ass or on your face. But if you haul a variety of different sleds, that might be your only option.
'09/'10 Season - 940 measly miles
'10/'11 Season - 2088 miles
'11/'12 Season - 1234 miles
#15
Posted 05 February 2012 - 01:03 PM
RayC, on 05 February 2012 - 11:32 AM, said:
I guess thats a pretty ok idea with the roller bearings ( until they freeze up or need replacing $$$ ).. but to wrap tie-down strap's around the ski's and spindle like that not to mention winding it around your track suspension..just doesn't seem like the brightess of methods...
#16
Posted 06 February 2012 - 10:16 AM
#20
Posted 06 February 2012 - 08:06 PM
Old Thumper, on 05 February 2012 - 12:36 PM, said:
When I did my trailer I got a free used track from my dealer. It was really trashed, so I mounted the sections with the inside facing up. As it turns out the drive lugs that are on the side I have facing up mesh very nicely with the cleats on my sled tracks. I will probably do my next trailer the same way regardless of the condition of the track I use. Screw them down through the steel clips to prevent the screw heads from pulling through.
Also, you can make great ski-guides from 2X4 lumber. The skis ride on the flat plastic and the carbides are suspended above the trailer floor. There is only 1 path for the skis to follow, so the sled is exactly where I want it to be every time. The down side is that this setup is sled-specific. My guides work great with any Yamaha that has a 42" ski stance and center keel skis. If I have to load a friends Skidoo with dual runner skis it does not work well, but that only happens about once per season at most.
I don't like plastic ski guides because when the trailer is tilted and you step off the sled onto the plastic with snow on your boot, gou're going to end up on your ass or on your face. But if you haul a variety of different sleds, that might be your only option.
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