16 replies to this topic

[arcticcatdave]

I have a 1989 indy 500 that has great spark, good comp. and clean carbs but when it sits for a week or so or its cold it takes like 20/25 pulls to start but once its warmed up and been riding it, it takes a half of a pull every time to start after I know its old but what is the problem.
Thanks,
Dave

Edited by arcticcatdave, 20 January 2012 - 07:24 PM.

[jhwentworth]

arcticcatdave, on 20 January 2012 - 07:23 PM, said:

I have a 1989 indy 500 that has great spark, good comp. and clean carbs but when it sits for a week or so or its cold it takes like 20/25 pulls to start but once its warmed up and been riding it, it takes a half of a pull every time to start after I know its old but what is the problem.
Thanks,
Dave

Have you checked the fuel enrichment (choke) settings? Each carb has a cable that actuates the fuel enrichener fuel circuit. When you operate the choke lever you should see the cable lift the enrichener.

[digitNH]

Do you have fuel in the lines before you start pulling? If not you probably have a leak and start with new lines..then move on to the choke.

[smallengineguy]

Fuel is draining back into the tank when it sits. If it doesn't have a check valve in the tank, you may need to rebuild the fuel pump.

[Pantera99]

I agree with Small Engine Guy... I'm not sure if you have this on that sled..But if you have a primer ( rubber ) Hand ball or thumb type..near Carburetor or in the line betwwen Tank and the Carb...the Rubber could have some dry-rot crack's..which let's air into the line enough to drain back down too the fuel tank... sometimes the Fuel lines get hard and this can leak around the connection nipples also...but the primer pump would be the 1st to look at cheaply..then you lines...
Even a leaky fuel line will let a sled run... once the Carb pump starts syphoning continueously...which is why it takes several hours for it to drain backwards in the fuel line..

http://www.mfgsupply...carbprimer.html

[smallengineguy]

www.brownsleisureworld.com will have a breakdown for you so you can see if there's a checkvalve in the tank.

[CATRESERVE]

Keep the tank full to help keep the lines from draining back. If you dribble some gas in each cylinder to prime it will it keep running? The 1990 that I had and my son's 440 ZR had that problem on occassion. Replaced gas lines and made sure the fuel filter and pump connections used ss hose clamps or the pinch type hose clamps and not wire ties. Good luck.

[Penelope]

per hubby it sounds like an emission of air into the lines check all fuel lines in for cracking if not check fuel pump. something in system is emitting air. I have a 1990 Indy that he is always working on.

[Rock On]

I would also check the choke system even if fuel was draining back into the tank the carbs should still be full and fire up. Could be as easy as a broken choke cable. Remeber these choke have to positions half choke on click up and full two notches up.

[arcticcatdave]

THANKS TO EVERYONE The choke cable seem fine I ordered a fuel pump rebuilt kit and replacen all the fuel lines I will keep you posted.The choke cable seem fine
Again Thanks
Dave

Edited by arcticcatdave, 22 January 2012 - 07:39 AM.

[arcticcatdave]

OK know that i did everything (choke cable gas lines fuel pump) it will not come off fast idle it hangs up at 2200 RPMs tried to blip the thottle and it goes to 3000RPMs but if i hit the kill switch or choke it it will drop to 1200/1300 RPMs and stay there until i hit the gas again. whats up ??

[Rock On]

arcticcatdave, on 27 January 2012 - 05:25 PM, said:

OK know that i did everything (choke cable gas lines fuel pump) it will not come off fast idle it hangs up at 2200 RPMs tried to blip the thottle and it goes to 3000RPMs but if i hit the kill switch or choke it it will drop to 1200/1300 RPMs and stay there until i hit the gas again. whats up ??

When it is idling high like that try flipping the choke lever up and then back down and see if the idle goes down. If it does go down and stays low for a bit it may be a lean condition then you should be able to adjust the air screws
a bit to fix.

[arcticcatdave]

Rock On, on 27 January 2012 - 06:20 PM, said:

When it is idling high like that try flipping the choke lever up and then back down and see if the idle goes down. If it does go down and stays low for a bit it may be a lean condition then you should be able to adjust the air screws
a bit to fix.

YES when i flip the choke up and down the idle does come down the plugs look one is tan and the other one looks greyish tan . which way would i turn the air screw in or out

[Rock On]

arcticcatdave, on 27 January 2012 - 07:04 PM, said:

YES when i flip the choke up and down the idle does come down the plugs look one is tan and the other one looks greyish tan . which way would i turn the air screw in or out

Trying to remember which way is which??? Do this first. Turn the air screws in to seat them softly count the turns on the way in then add 1/4 turn to the total back out. see what that does.

[Bilbo]

Which cylinder has the greyish tan plug, there's the lean one. How are the carb boots, any cracking?

[rivercat]

I "feel" your carbs are not "totally clean" have they been dipped by a dealer? It sounds like your pilot air on one carb is messed up, I have tinkered with carbs in the past, BUT not having them PERFECT could result in a "roasted cylinder" Just having them "visually clean" does not mean they are all set.

No offense intended at all but if you need to be asking,,,, you honestly should see a qualified dealer/service tec,,,,,,, BTW,, I refuse to do my own for this very reason.

[digitNH]

Carbs need cleaning and adjustment.